Question:
n00b questions
how do you tell if something is selvage? I know it's to do with the seams, but I can't ever really tell.
and while we're on the topic, how do you tell if denim's raw?
-Migo
Answer:
im sure you can do a search and look it up,
cuff the jeans and the outer seam shouldnt be frayed, it will be a clean edge if its selvage
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=12729
Answer:
It can be a little confusing at first, especially because some brands like Diesel and Earnest Sewn finish their inseams in ways that almost look like selvage at first glance. But once you have it figured out, you'll wonder how in the hell it could ever have been a mystery.
Basically selvage edges will always have a fabric edge, usually white with a colored thread running down the length, instead of an edge that was cut off and sewn over.
For example, here is a jean with both a non-selvage edge (left, and a selvage edge (right):
Notice the selvage is distinctly continuous from the weave of the denim, while the non-selvage edge is stitched over. This selvage in particular is much thicker than normal, but I figured the pic is a pretty good illustration of both types of edges.
Also, some manufacturers do not sew their non-selvage edges so loosely as this example either. . .e.g., Diesel sews their non-selvage edges with colored stitching so closely that from a distance it can look like it might be a selvage edge.
Raw jeans can usually be discerned by their very deep color, and usually they will be very stiff because they have never been washed.
Answer:
it looks like that selvage edge is frayed-----meaning it is projectile-loomed.
narrow-loom selvage will have a non-fraying edge.
just to complicate the issue.
you can tell if jeans are washed by rippling, especially at the hem. if you are debating if they are raw or one-wash, it doesn't matter; they will fade well, either way.
Answer:
how about this :
Answer:
dingdingdingdingdingdingding!
Answer:
Okay, here's a little visual guide that explains it better than plain English, and I've included a few brands that I can see confusing to a newb. . .
Selvage (RRL):
NOT selvage (Diesel):
^^Tightly sewn-over edges in bright thread; pretty, but no dice.
Selvage (Nudie):
NOT selvage (Earnest Sewn):
^^notice the dark stitching sewing the edge contrasted by the orange stitching down the center of the edges, from afar it can be deceiving:devil:
Selvage (5EP):
^^here's one brand that doesn't use the common white selvage, but notice the fabric edges are continuous from the denim
NOT selvage (Volcom):
^^kinda like Deisel
Selvage (Paul Smith Red Ear):
^^another brand that uses non-white selvage, in fact, as you can see, they use some motley colored material for the selvage edges.
By now, the first poster will hopefully not have any lingering doubts.
Answer:
:inlove:
Answer:
nice tutorial nasty A
Answer:
That was a nice tutorial Nasty!:) Many could have been very rude to a question like that.
Answer:
on this last one, take a look at the twill am i mistaken or not . to me it looks like the front and back are cut from two different peice goods. see the angle of the twill on each side of the seam. i know the denim may not be laying flat, but the two twill weaves look a bit different. that may be the reason for two different selvage colors. what do you think?
Answer:
Thanks, I was actually just having fun with my camera, but hopefully it will be helpful to some people.
To my untrained eye it looks the same except for the selvage colors. You could very well be correct and that would be a very reasonable explanation for the different sides. Obviously, the only other reason would be a different finish on each side of the loom, but your explanation would probably be less expensive for the manufacturer, I suppose.
Answer:
hey nastyandy,
those RRL selvage jeans look really nice. What model and wash are those jeans, and do you know any retailers that still carry them? Thanks man.
Answer:
They are the raw slim bootcuts, but they are the first generation Japanese denim from RRL and no longer available AFAIK. Every now and again they pop up on ebay for pretty good prices.
RRL is launching a new line of denim this year and GQ did a spread on them, I think they will be available at Nieman Marcus.
Answer:
Thanks Andy.
I like the sushi stitch selvage. :inlove:
