Question:
Is there a standard size for patch pockets on sportcoats?
I'm getting a bespoke sportcoat made (blue Irish 14oz linen, quarter lined, welted breast pocket) and the tailor tried some paper pocket mockups during the fitting. I wanted them bigger but the tailor said they would look awful / out of balance. It's really hard to tell without seeing the end result. He also mentioned that the pockets should narrow at their opening.
The height of the side vents is 9.5 inches and the opening of the patch pockets will be in line with the vent's opening.
1) How far should the bottom of the pockets be from the bottom of the coat?
2) How wide should the pockets be?
3) What is the purpose of the narrowing in the pocket's opening?
Looking forward to your feedback.
Answer:
What size is your jacket? Maybe someone can measure a similar sized jacket and compare.
Answer:
The jacket should be around 38 Short.
Answer:
It sounds like a case where I'd take my tailor's advice and not micro-manage the process. I did when I ordered my patch pocket suit.
The slight narrowing of the pockets at the top might be like the old Greek architectural trick of narrowing temples as they rose. The observer would, due to optical illusion, think they were perfectly vertical, whereas if they actually were, the building would appear to bulge at the top.
Answer:
That's my understanding. They should narrow slightly, almost imperceptibly. I too would probably take the tailor's advice on size, since it does sound like he knows what he's doing. The the patch-pocket blazer I'm wearing today, the pockets are maybe a hair more than an inch from the bottom.
Answer:
I for one want the narrowing to be perceptible. I also don't want the patches to symetrical. The outer edge should end a little higher than the inner, and should also curve in a little more sharply toward the top.
Answer:
Why?
EDIT: Manton is correct, as usual. Here's mine:
Answer:
It just looks nicer to me. Same reason why a straight, parallel the floor breast pocket looks bad, but one angled looks good. Curved is even better. Gives a slight impression of height and forward motion. Or something.
Answer:
Unfortunately, this would be too avant-garde for my tailor... I think it takes a great eye and skill to make this work. I've seen it on an Italian bespoke coat and I thought it looked nice but a bit more informal than the symmetrical patches. Does any house use this style by default?
Did you have your coat shortened? This sounds a bit too close to the bottom but then again what do I know... I like 1.5"-2" but I don't know if this is the standard distance or my preference only.:)
Answer:
See the pic. I didn't, but I got it used, so anything could have happened, I supposed.
Answer:
Mine all vary from 3.5 to 4.5 cm from the bottom.
Here is a pic of the shape. Some are less shaped, some are a touch more. I would also say that patch pockets should always be combined with double stitching.
Answer:
Has any1 ever asked, on the street to measure, some1's pockets ? Yesterday it occured to, me but I worried over, the reception.
Answer:
thats the traditional patch pocket. the classic shape.
Answer:
I think it would be rather fun to get giant mitten-shaped patch pockets.
