Question:
I'd like to get a new two-button navy blazer. Before I plunk down on a MTM (and be forced to wait 6-8 weeks) I thought I'd first consider something OTR. I found these three options online that may work. Do any of you have any familiarity with any of these blazers (from Paul Stuart, Ben Silver and Brooks Brothers Country Club)? I'm particularly interested in how soft the shoulder is (the softer the better) and the overall quality of the construction and fabric. Thanks in advance!
PS
http://www.paulstuart.com/product_in...SUBPRODCATID=0
BS
http://www.bensilver.com/fs_storefro...8370&gro up=1
BB CC
http://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCatP...t_color= Navy
Answer:
don't have first hand experience with either the Paul Stuart or the Ben Silver, but the Ben Silver one does say that it is canvassed. I know for certain, having felt it, that the BB country club jacket is half-canvassed only.
Answer:
That's no good.
Answer:
BB Golden Fleece is a pretty good blazer that is fully canvassed. I don't see it online, but it should be easy enough to order through a store. I actually prefer the older model from a few seasons ago when they used hopsack. You can call around to a few outlet stores, which sometimes stock these, and see if you can get one in your size. They usually run only about $200.
Answer:
Do you mean the older GF (or 1818) models? $200 seems like a great deal for both. Any comments on the shoulders of the new (and old) GF models?
Answer:
I mean the GF, not 1818. It's the fully canvassed model made by Martin Greenfeld. The current model probably runs somewhere around $800 to $1,000. They changed the fabric from hopsack to a more plain worsted wool a few seasons back. For a blazer, I think the hopsack is much more interesting fabric, as it has a bit of texture to it. The older GF uses a Loro Piana Super 130s hopsack. When the stores went with the new fabric, they dumped the older models in the outlets, where they are usually marked down between $200 to $300. I picked mine up for about $180 by calling a couple of different stores and asking them to check if they had my size in stock. They did and shipped it to me for $15. There are some GF suits on the BB web site. No blazers, though. This may give you an idea for the shoulder.
Answer:
I've had a couple (recent) GF OTR suits. I didn't like the shoulder very much. Way too much padding.
Answer:
Why, what diffference do you find (while wearing, not while on a hanger) in any half canvass jackets versus full canvass.?
Answer:
Psychological.
It's similar to John Lobb or Allen Edmonds argument, whilst wearing the shoes, that is.
Answer:
Agreed. Also, compare a full canvas jacket to a half canvas jacket after a couple years of regular wear. I'm confident you'll notice a difference. On initial comparison the difference is negligible though.
Answer:
I have a 1.5-2 year old Borrelli jacket which is fused and I would be more than willing to put it up against any 2 year old full canvass jacket in terms of fit, softness, durabilty and how it's held up.
Answer:
Retail price of your Borrelli jacket please? How do you think it compares in construction to a BB CC blazer?
Answer:
It's more than that.
There may be exceptions but canvassed jackets will almost always feel softer / more natural than fused ones.
Answer:
That's no longer true.
My point in all this is buy what fits you best and falls within the category of what you are looking for, don't put so much emphasis on half/full canvass. While Golden Fleece and such is fuly canvassed and well made, I do not like the looks of it and would rather wear a fused Etro suit but again, my style is more Etro than Golden Fleece. I have an Etro jacket here that is fused and is as soft, drapes as well, as any canvass jacket I own. Quality is quality, cheap is cheap. Baroni suits on ebay are supposedly fully canvassed and I guarantee you that they are stiff and feel like crap.
Answer:
I know the line of Borrelli you are talking about. It is super soft and holds up well. The downside is that it is not really structured at all, so it almost wears like a cardigan or overshirt. I don't really see it as a downside, but people looking for a little structure might.
