Question:
Hi. First time poster here. I know there are lots of these, and I've read around, but I figured it was about time to just post something. I am looking to buy a suit (or couple, depending on price, etc.). I have a family event (Bar Mitzvah) coming up and my old suit which I got right when college started is hopelessly out of date and makes me cringe every time I have to put it on. I was out looking yesterday and have some ideas about what I like and don't but thought i'd get some advice from the experts.
I'm a quite slim 5'10" 23 year old (this is starting to sound like a personal ad...). I currently don't have the need to wear suits for business but I plan to make a move in the next 3-4 months that will necessitate wearing a suit daily.
I have tried on a number of brands and my impression so far is that the Hugo Boss (I know, not terribly well liked around these parts) Red Label fits best off the rack. Its quite slim, which works well for my body type. Burberry seemed a bit too traditional to me (not trim enough in the jacket, pants too high of a rise, shoulders jutting out a bit too much). I understand that a good amount can be done in alternations but I guess its hard for me to picture when at the store trying on suits that just don't look quite right at the time. That being said, I do have a pretty good tailor in San Francisco.
My thought was to get a blue pin and/or a charcoal gray suit. I'd love for at least one of the suits to be versatile enough so that I can wear the jacket with a pair of jeans in the evening or on the weekend.
I was in Bloomingdales yesterday and they are having a sale which would allow me to get a Boss Red label for about $500 plus about $15 in Bloomingdales gift cards for every $100 i spend. Also, Burburry is having a trunk show that will allow me to waive the $200 upcharge on their M2M suits (I'd only do this if I decided to get 2 since I need at least one before the 6 weeks that it will take to get it back).
Finally, I will be going to Hong Kong in November. It seems like a waste to go and not get a suit. I have done some reading here about Jantzen and WW Chan, and I'm not sure $800 is in my pricepoint for a Chan suit (particularly if I'm buying 2 others), although I suppose it could be if the alternative (Jantzen?) really wasn't worth the $500. How do each of these compare in quality to something like a Boss Red label (I'm pretty sure Chan far surpasses, so I guess I'm really asking about Jantzen)? Like I said, I will be moving into a job that will require a daily suit, so having at least 3 isn't a bad idea anyway.
Now that I've told you my life story, any help would be greatly appreciated. Is the $500 for the Boss Red label worth it (with the understanding that its a pretty subjective question)?
Thanks!
Answer:
Sounds like you need more than one suit.
I'm pretty much your size, and I find that the most useful thing you can do when trying on a suit is to wrap the coat closed around yourself to see just how much 'excess' fabric there is in the body. A tailor is only going to be able to take out an inch or so without extensive work; so if the coat fits like a robe, you're in the wrong suit and it'll never be right.
Get plain suits first. Pinstripes are a little flashy, especially for an entry-level position - even in finance/law.
And you will not get a suit and then wear the jacket casually. Go to Banana Republic and find a jacket. Go to ebay or a thrift store and find a jacket. Do not take a suit coat to a bar.
Don't worry about the brand. If the Boss fits you, and you need it now, get it. If you have a little more time, try
Four-In-Hand - Jonathan has suits that will fit you, and shirts too.
As far as HK tailors go, there are many threads discussing them here. My one piece of advice is that you should understand exactly what fit you want before you go. Again, if the Boss passes the wrap test, take it to your tailor and have him pin it so you can see how it would fit - if you like the look in the mirror once he's pinned it, you may be in the right suit. Better yet, have him take photographs of you in the suit before he's pinned it and afterwards, and then post them here for critique. It's not a bloodsport :devil: you'll get good feedback.
Finally, welcome.
Answer:
FWIW, I might mention that $800 for a Chan suits seems pretty optimisitic these days. I think their suits start around $1,000 to $1,100 with their less-expensive worsteds.
