Question:
There's a new book on the fall of luxury
reviewed in the NYT:
The article, at least, is worth reading.
Answer:
i think that at one point or another, 99% of companies will go south. it probably has something to do with an intrinsic human greed or the like.
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It has to do with what people will accept.
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High quality, high priced items will always be sought. The makers may evolve with new names coming forth and older names might fade. Paris and France will also likely remain the center of the luxury goods.
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Perhaps then one reason there is more interest in bespoke is because of the banality of said "luxury" goods. Bespoke gives you something unique; especially since the luxury brands are no longer so unique.
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I think the author Dana has a compelling point in that quality has suffered over time. Things have moved away from craftmanship to more, dare I say, machine made goods that often are sold via clever brand marketing.
Look at the quality of Armani, most Polo goods....anyone remember the great hype around Tommy Hilfiger at its peak?
I think a change in economic perspective is occuring as well. Some Americans are moving away from ostentatious status symbols and indeed spending money on material things in general.
It's like Dave Ramsey says "the paid off mortgage is replacing the BMW as the status symbol of choice."
Answer:
*cough* Kiton *cough*
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What's a matter Pariolini, you can't yet get over the 16 hours in a Kiton suit?
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Obviously the sweet spot is being able to expand somewhat, maintain quality, and still command a higher premium to make up for lack of volume. Would you say Edward Green is an example of this? They maintain maybe a 30% quality edge on C&J and yet justifiably command a 100% premium over them.
Have any brands been able to expand significantly without deteriorating significantly?
What do you think about Crockett & Jones?
Oxxford?
Answer:
I think this article has little application to most all the brands discussed on this forum. My business has given me the opportunity to examine a pretty comprehensive sample of high end tailored goods, accessories, and shoes produced in the last 30 or so years. This has led me to the conclusion that overall the quality of goods has actually improved quite a bit, especially in the last 5-10 years. Quite the opposite of what the author is saying.
Now I have relatively little experience with a lot if the mass market designers and womenswear, so things may be different there.
Answer:
at least until the current generation of artisans decides to cash their cushy state retirement checks before they bounce and the young generation (if you can even call the few chilluns in western europe a full "generation") don't want to toil the way their parents did. I give ten, fifteen years tops.
Answer:
I think you are right that the high quality item will always be sought out.
Where they come from in the future may evolve in a way that is unforseen.
What comes to mind is the way studio jewelry has moved into the luxury market over the last 30 years and is a worldwide phenomenon.
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I think the article's author has a wider definition of luxury than this forum's.
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Rather just not over the crap that the wasted 16 hours engender :laugh:
Now before you start another flame war get thee to Naples, and utter not another peep until you are the owner of a real Neapolitan bespoke lounge suit.
Answer:
Good points. I wonder though about Green, C&J and Oxxford and how their sale volumes are doing. Has Green lost market to C&J? Are they doing better today than they used to? It's very difficult to get a sense for it because in the US, most men won't even pay for A&E shoes.
