Question:
Please explain to me why Bemberg lining, a type of rayon, would be considered a quality lining? Why is silk not used more often for suit linings?
Speaking of Bemberg...how is it different from other synthetics that makes it desireable for suitings?
Best.
Answer:
Cupramonium rayon is what's usually referred to as "bemberg," although some people use the term loosely to cover any mix of materials used in lining suit jackets. This rayon (also called cupro for short) is made from pulp (I've heard wood pulp or even pieces of cotton), making it unlike other man-made fibers which are composed of synthetics. As for why it's used instead of silk, I've read that silk is less durable than cupro bemberg, and tends to get hotter.
Answer:
If I recall isn't bemberg used for various dust bags especially of Gucci, YSL's?
I could have sworn when I looked in some of mine the tags stated bemberg.
Answer:
If woven well (specifically for linings for clothes, I suppose), silk is at least as durable as Bemberg. Silk breathes better, too, so is cooller in summer and warmer in winter. I find silk tactilely and visually more pleasing.
The problem lies in finding suitable silks. Bemberg is less expensive and a fair imitation of silk, and so has displaced silk in nearly all ready-made suits. Even for a tailor, availability of silk linings is not (I understand) half so great as a generation ago.
On my last trip to China, I made efforts in both Shanghai and Beijing to find silk that was made to line clothes. I visited two or three large fabric or silk sellers in each city and found nothing.
Answer:
According to Centofanti, this great tailor in Philadelphia, silk rips more easily than Bemberg. This may not be mutually exlusive with the above observations, because the silk linings that are available may not be the highest quality possible. Keep in mind that he did not shy away from the finest quality materials of any other part of his suit, eg bone buttons, best fabric, etc, so I do not think he was trying to be self-serving.
Answer:
Brescd01 has it. Bemberg outperforms silk to such a degree that the bespoke tailors switched decades ago.
If you wish a high performing lining from the past, have your tweeds lined with alpaca.
Will
Answer:
That's likely accurate regarding what seems to be available today. Older silk linings, with self-woven designs acting virtually as rip-stops, did not rip easily. My last remaining clothes from thirty-five years ago, a dinner coat and a sportcoat, were lined with such silk, and each lining still is unripped despite fairly hard wear.
I suspect that cost was determinative in the apparent extinction of those older lining silks.
Has anyone any idea when Andy will be back on line?
